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Propagating 
Trees and Plants 




Simple Directions for Propagating Many 

of the Common Fruits of Orchard and 

Garden; for Use by the Farmer 

and Others Who Grow Fruit 

in a Small Way. 



By W. L. HOWARD 

Assistant Professor of Horticulture in the University of Missouri 

With Illustrations 
By E. H. FAVOR 

Assistant Horticulturist 



PUBLISHED BY THE FRUIT=GROWER COMPANY 
SAINT JOSEPH, MISSOURI 

1905 







Brother Jonathan 
Series 




Booklet No. 1 



Introductory 



The Editor of THE FRUIT GROWER is responsi- 
ble for the appearance of this booklet. Being in 
close touch with farmers and fruit growers, as well 
as a host of professional and business men in city 
and town, who are interested to some degree in 
fruit growing - , he has had abundant opportunity for 
learning their needs. The question department of 
THE FRUIT GROWER bears ample testimony to the 
demand for popular information in regard to the 
propagation of many of our common fruits. 

There is no good reason why any farmer, if he so 
desires, may not propagate all of the fruits neces- 
sary for his home garden or orchard- Such work 
can be done with little or no expense, and besides, it 
is pleasant and interesting for the boys of the fam- 
ily. If one knows how to propagate certain plants he 
can often save his money by purchasing a few speci- 
mens and from these propagate any number desired. 
Some of the best varieties of many of the fruits are 
often quite expensive and of such it would be neces- 
sary to purchase only one or two specimens and 
grow the rest from these at home. There are other 
advantages also in growing fruits for planting for 
home use, such as being sure that they are true to 
name and knowing that they have not been injured 
by exposure before being planted. In this booklet no 
attempt will be made to give a complete discussion 
of the methods of propagating all of the fruits. It 
is the intention to give a list of only the more com- 
mon fruits and to discuss them from the standpoint 
of the farmer who does not expect to become a nurs- 
eryman or to grow the plants in a wholesale way. 
The various fruits will be taken up alphabetically 
rather than by any other classification. 



Propagating Trees and Plants 

All of our fruits and vegetables are multiplied or 
increased either from seeds or buds. Nearly all of 
the vegetables are grown from seeds, while com- 
paratively few of the fruits are propagated in this 
way. It is Quite true that the fruits have their be- 
ginning with the seed, but since we cannot depend 
upon varieties coming true from seed, we must rely 
on grafting, budding, etc., these being methods of 
bud reproduction. 

APPLES. 

The apple is usually propagated either by grafting 
or by budding. Grafting is the more common way 
and the one in most general use. There are two prin- 
cipal forms of graftage: one, the whip- or tongue- 
graft, usually used in uniting a piece of twig to a 
section of root; the other, the cleft-graft, employed 
in top-working trees that are several years old, in 
the field. In describing how to propagate apple 
trees by whip- or tongue-grafting it is necessary to 
begin at the beginning, that is, with the seeds, for by 
this method we must grow little apple roots upon 
which to graft the scions (twigs) of the varieties 
of apples we desire to have. In the fall of the year 
save the seeds from the apples used about the house. 
If it is convenient to get apple pomace (the ground- 
up and saueezed-out refuse of apples) from some 
place where cider is being made, the seeds can be 
collected rapidly. Pour the pomace into a barrel 
two-thirds full of water and stir the mass with a 
stick. The seeds will settle to the bottom as 
they are separated from the flesh of the apple and 
the coarser part of the pomace may be skimmed off. 
The fine particles of the pulp will settle down with 
the seeds and unless one has a wheat sieve at hand 
to help, it is a tedious matter to separate all of the 
seeds from the pomace. It is more agreeable, of 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 7 

course, to have all of the seeds clear of the pomace 
but it is not at all necessary. When apples are be- 
ing - dried or canned the children may cut the seeds 
from the cores; a surprisingly large number of 
seeds may be secured in a very short time in this 
way. 

After apple seeds have become dry they will not 
sprout without having been frozen. To freeze the 
seeds treat as follows: Secure a wooden box 12 to 
24 inches square and 6 to 10 inches deep. Spread 
a layer of sand in the bottom an inch deep. On this 




spread a layer of the apple seeds. Make alternate 
layers of sand' and seed in this way until the box is 
filled or all the seeds used up, as illustrated in Fig. 
1, where is shown a box of stratified peach seeds. 
Be sure that there is a layer of sand an inch or two 
thick on the top of the box. To keep out mice it is 
a good idea to tack some fine wire netting over the 



Fig. 1 — Box of stratified peach seed; side of box removed to 
show arrangement of seeds in the sand. 



8 PROPAGATING TREES AND PLANTS. 

box. The box should have several holes bored in the 
bottom in order to secure good drainage. About the 
first of December place the box on the north side of 
a building, sinking it slightly in the earth in order to 
keep the sand moist. Do not cover the box but leave 
it exposed so that the rain and snow may get in and 
help to keep the sand from drying out. This pro- 
cess is called "stratifying" the seeds and it does not 
matter if there is some of the pomace left with 
them when they/are^ mixed with the sand- 

The seeds are to remain stratified all winter. The 
freezing and thawing softens the seed coats so that 
germination will take place quickly and easily after 
they are planted. The seeds need not be disturbed 
until they are ready to plant in spring at gardening 
time. Prepare the seed bed with care. Select a place 
where the soil is deep and fairly rich. It is very im- 
portant that the soil be deep so the roots can go 
straight down, for it is the roots that we are after and 
the longer they can be made to grow the better. 
Plow the land deeply and prepare as for garden 
plants. Lay off rows four feet apart and sow seeds 
about as thickly as beets or peas, in the rows. In- 
stead of using soil it is a good idea to cover the 
seeds with thoroughly rotted chip-dirt, straw or ma- 
nure, but whatever is used should Be free from weed 
seeds. Cover the seeds only about an inch deep. If 
the spring is late the seed boxes should be watched 
very carefully as the seeds may begin to sprout before 
we are ready to plant them. If they begin to sprout 
they must be planted at once, even though the soil 
be too wet to work properly. If they are covered 
with the material mentioned above they will not suf- 
fer from planting when too wet. 

Give the little seedlings good cultivation by plow- 
ing and hoeing throughout the summer, thus keeping 
them growing vigorously. Late in the fall after the 



FKi tit- GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 



Fig 2. 

be possible to 



leaves have been shed, or by the 
first of November, whether the 
leaves are off or not, the plants 
are to be dug up, tied in bundles 
and stored in the cellar. (See Pig. 
2 for seedling apple root for graft- 
ing.) It may be necessary to strip 
off the leaves. If the tops are long, 
clip them off slightly and pack the 
bundles in boxes with green saw- 
dust pressed around them. Sand 
that is slightly moist may be used, 
but it is not as good as the fresh 
sawdust. Dig into the boxes occas- 
ionally and if found to be drying 
out the sawdust should be sprin- 
kled with water. 

The scions for grafting on the 
roots may be taken from the trees 
at any time after the leaves 
have fallen, but it is much bet- 
ter to cut them before the first 
hard freeze. Never cut scions 
(twigs) from trees while frozen; 
if cold weather comes on sud- 
denly before the scions are taken, 
wait until they are thawed out. It 
is first necessary to decide what 
varieties are wanted, then go to a 
healthy tree that is known to pro- 
duce good crops of the desired sort 
and cut from it the best twigs of 
the last season's' growth. Wood 
that is two years old is not suitable 
for grafting. If we prefer to take 
the scions from a young tree it may 
get them as much as two feet long, 



Fig. 2 — Apple stock. At (a) is shown a No. 1 apple root of one 
season's growth from the seed. This is cut into 3-inch sections for 
making root grafts; (b), shows the same root after being properly 
cut into pieces; (c), shows seedling top, and (d), tip of root — both 
to be discarded. 



10 PROPAGATING TREES AND PLANTS 

but they can be used if the growth has not been 
more than four or five inches, which may be the 
case with old trees. Water sprouts, where they are 
growing- well above the ground, may be used if they 
are well matured. Never make the scions of soft, 
spongy, immature wood or any which has refused 
to shed its leaves. If the scions are taken from the 
trees early they should be packed in green sawdust 
like the rootsT"" - 

The grafting should preferably be done in a cel- 
lar or basement room, but may be performed in a 
moderately warm living room, if the materials are 
kept packed until ready to use 'and then repacked 
as soon as the grafts are made. Do not work about 
an open fire or near a hot stove, as both the 
roots and twigs may be dried out and seriously 
injured. Grafting may be done in January or Feb- 
ruary or even early March at the north, but Feb- 
ruary is usually the best month. 

Making the Grafts. — If the twigs are long enough 
make the scions about six inches long, but they may 
be made shorter if necessary. (See Fig. 3 for long 
and short twigs before and after being made into 
scions.) On the butt end of the scion make a sloping 
cut an inch or an inch and a half long, as shown in 
Fig. 4a. Use a sharp knife and make the cut smooth 
and uniform. On the sloping cut surface, about 
one-third of the way from the end of the twig, make 
a slit or "tongue" by a downward cut, from one- 
half to an inch deep along the grain of the wood, 
as shown in the illustration Fig. 4a. After becom- 
ing accustomed to the work, it would be better to 
form the sloping cut, make the tongue and then cut 
off the scion of the desired length. 

Next take one of the long seedling roots shown 
in Fig. 2a and 2b, and follow the same process. 
Begin at the crown (the part of the root that was 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 11 

just at the surface of the ground) and form a sloping 
cut, being careful that it is of the same slope as that 
of the scion and make the tongue in the same way and 
at the same distance from 
the end of the root as in the 
scion. (See Fig. 4 b.) This 
done, cut the root off, having 
the piece about three inches 
long and repeating the pro- 
cess until the entire root is 
used. If the seedlings have 
made a good growth and the 
soil has been porous enough 
to let them go down, each 
root will usually make two 
and sometimes three pieces. 
Observe in Fig. 2 how the 
seedling root has been cut in 
two pieces about three inches 
long. 

Join the root and scion by 
pressing the two sloping sur- 
faces together and forcing 
the tongues to interlock. At 
this point the main thing to 
be observed is to watch one 
side and see that the bark 
line of the scion comes ex- 
actly in contact with the 
bark line on the root. 
This is highly important, 
for here is where the 
two are to grow together. The scion and root 
may not be of the same thickness, in fact, seldom are, 
but this makes no difference if the above instructions 
are followed. Fig. 4c shows the scion and root 




Fig 



Fig. 4 — How . to make the whip- or tongue-graft. At (a) is 
shown how to make the sloping cut and the slit or tongue in the 
scion; (b), shows corresponding sloping cut and tongue for the root 
or stock; (c), shows scion and root properly united; (d), proper 
manner of tying the splice. 



12 PROPAGATING TREES AND PLANTS 




Fig 3— Long and short twigs before and after making into scions: 
(a), short growth from an old tree; (b), the same after being made 
into scions; (c), long twigs from vigorous trees; (d), the same 
after being made into scions. 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 13 

properly united. After pressing the two pieces to- 
gether, it will be necessary to wrap the graft at the 
point of union with No. 18 or 20 cotton knitting 
thread. Lay the thread on the wood near the end of 
the cut, wind two or three times around at this place, 
at the same time pressing the parts tightly together 
with thumb and finger; next work the thread up to 
the other end of the cut by winding it two or three 
times around the graft during the distance, then two 
or three times around the other end of the cut as in 
the beginning and fasten the end of the thread by 
drawing it down in the cut and, by a sharp jerk, 
break it off. This completes the process. The fin- 
ished graft should be from seven to nine inches long. 
(Fig. 4d.) The old way was to wax the point of union 
or wrap with waxed thread or strips of cloth, but this 
is not necessary. 

Pack the grafts in bundles of fifty to a hundred 
each, and store in green sawdust where they are to 
remain until planting time. While packed in the saw- 
dust the cut surfaces which have been joined to- 
gether will actually begin to heal over and partially 
unite, and on this account the grafts should not be 
disturbed until they are taken out to plant. Keep 
the box of grafts in a cellar or moderately cool room. 
They must not be permitted to freeze, neither must 
they be allowed to dry out. It may be necessary to 
sprinkle the sawdust a few times before spring. 

Planting. As soon as the ground will do to work 
in the spring, select a place where the soil is mod- 
erately rich, but not extremely so, on which to plant 
the grafts. Plow the land deeply and otherwise pre- 
pare as for a garden spot. The rows need not be long 
but should be perfectly straight. To get them 
straight stretch a string or wire across the plot. The 
rows are to be four feet apart, but are not to be laid 
<>ff with a plow. With an old hoe-handle which has 



14 PROPAGATING TREES AND PLANTS 

been sharpened to a point, with a long slope, go 
along the line and punch holes in the ground about 
eight inches apart, withdrawing the pole carefully, 
with many side movements, so the soil will not fall 
in. Plant the /grafts deeply. After placing them 
in the holes, see that only one or two buds of the 




Fig. 5. 
scion are left above ground. This will make it nec- 
essary to have the ground plowed deeply. Be sure to 
press soil up closely against the roots of the grafts. 

This is best done with a dibber or short stick 



Fig. 5 — Planting apple grafts. The soil must be pressed tightly 
about the roots, a dibber being a good instrument to use for this 
purpose. At (a) is seen the graft dropped into the hole; (b), 
where the soil is pressed up against graft with the hands; im- 
perfectly planted, note air space at bottom; (c), how soil is 
forced up against graft with a dibber; (d), after being covered 
with a dibber — no air space left, soil fits snugly against all parts 
of zratt. 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 15 



which is forced into the ground beside the grafts and 
crowds the soil up against them. (See Fig. 5.) The 
grafts cannot grow if air spaces are left around the 
roots. Here is where more people fail than at any 
other point. Give the little trees good culture, in- 
cluding two or three hoeings during the summer and 
with a reasonably fair season they will reward their 
owner with a vigorous growth. 

Early the following spring, before growth begins, 
go through the nursery and carefully trim off any 
branches that may have formed up to a height of 
18 or 20 inches. The trees may be set in the orchard 
after one season's growth, but all things considered, 
it is usually more satisfactory to allow them to grow 
two seasons in the nursery row before transplanting. 
They may be set in the orchard in the fall if there 
has been rain enough to make the ground moist. 
Most trees are set in the spring, which is usually the 
most satisfactory, especially in the north. 

Cleft-Grafting. While the whip- or tongue-grafting, 
described above is the method in most general use 
by nurserymen for the propagation of apple -trees 
in wholesale quantities, there is another form known 
as cleft-grafting that is used very extensively by 
farmers and others who have but few trees. Cleft- 
grafting is especially useful where one has an apple 
tree that has reached bearing age and is found to be 
unsatisfactory either in the kind or quantity of its 
fruit. The tree may be cut down, if not too old, or 
its main branches may be sawed off in early spring 
and have the desired variety of apple inserted upon 
the stump. Cleft-grafting is sometimes used on 
other trees besides the apple. This method is also 
sometimes called top-grafting. As many varieties 
as there are branches to work them upon may be 
top-grafted upon a single tree. It is a matter of 
great curiosity to see apples of different colors 
and sizes growing on the same tree. New varieties 



I 3 



16 PROPAGATING TREES AND PL-ANTS 

may be hurried into bearing by being worked upon 
the branches of an old tree. 

It will be necessary to collect the scions for top- 
grafting early in the winter before freezing and 
store them in the manner described above. The 
grafting is done in the early 
spring at the time the leaf buds 
are beginning to open- At this 
time the sap in the tree to be top- 
worked will be flowing freely, but 
the scion to be inserted upon it is 
perfectly dormant in a cellar. 

To do the work, saw off the old 
branch if as much as an inch in 
diameter, or even the body of the 
tree (Fig. 8), if it is not more than 
four inches thick, and split the 
stump down through the center 
with a knife or hatchet (Pig. 9). 
The scion (which is of the same 
kind of wood as described for 
other scions) should be only four 
or five inches long, and at the 
butt end whittle on both sides to a 
wedge shape, as shown in Fig. 7- 
In making the wedge the slope 
must be long and uniform, care 
being taken to whittle about the 
same amount of wood from each 
side. Pry open the split in the 
trunk or branch to be grafted and 
carefully insert the scion so that 
the bark on one side will be ex- 
Fig. 7. actly in contact with the inner 

part of the growing bark of the old stub or 
stump. (See. Fig. 9.) This is extremely important, 
for here is the place where they are to grow together 



Fig. 7 — Scions whittled to a wedge-shape for top-grafting. 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 17 



and they cannot do so unless the hark of one piece 
is exactly in line with the bark of the other. If 
the old branch or trunk of the tree is large enough, 



that is, thick enough 



advisable to use two 
scions, one on either 
side of the stump, as 
this will double the 
chances of success. If 
the grafted stump be 
as much as three 
inches thick, a wedge 
for the purpose 
should be made and 
driven down in the 
center of the cleft 
just far enough to 
prevent too great a 
pressure on the scions 
and yet not far 
enough to cause them 
to be loose. After 
driving down to the 
proper point, the 
wedge may be broken 
off. When the scions 
and wedge are in 
p.ace it will be neces- 
sary to cover all cut 
surfaces with hot 
grafting wax. (See 
Pig. 10.) The wax may 
Figs. 8, 9 and 10. be me ited in a tin pan 
at the house and carried to the orchard if not too 
far away. It is best to have a little paddle with 
which to dip up the molten wax and spread it over 
and around the scions in such a manner as to en- 
tirely exclude the air and thus keep them from dry- 
Fig. 8 — A branch sawed off and ready to be split for grafting. 
Fig. 9 — A branch with two scions correctly inserted in the 
cleft with wedge between them to prevent their being crushed 
when the branch is large. 
Fig. 10 — Cleft-graft covered with grafting wax. 




18 PROPAGATING TREES AND PliANTS. 

ing out until they unite with the old wood. This 
wax should never be disturbed afterwards, as it 

will not injure 
the tree. 

If both scions 
grow, by all 
means cut one of 
them out. If both 
are allowed to 
stand, a forked 
tree will be form- 
ed, which is al- 
ways to be 
avoided. 

In Fig. 11 is 
shown' an eight- 
year-old worth- 
less seedling ap- 
ple tree which 
has been top-; 
worked to a 
known variety. 
The new growth 
should bear fruit 
in three years. 

To Make Graft, 
ing Wax. Com- 
mon rosin seven 
pounds, beeswax 
two pounds, tal- 
low 1 pound. If 
so much is not 
desired, divide 
each of the above 
may be needed. 
Melt all of the ingredients together in a pot or 




items by 



Fig. 11. 
two, three 



or four as 



Fig. 11 — An 8-year-old seedling apple tree which has been top- 
worked to a known variety. 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 19 

pan over a slow fire, stirring thoroughly. When 
they are well mixed, pour a part of the mass into 
a small tub of water until partially cooled, then 
take it out and pull like taffy candy until it be- 
comes too stiff to work. Roll into balls as large 
as a man's fist and store away until needed. It will 
keep indefinitely. 

Budding. Apples may be propagated readily by 
budding the last week of August or early in Sep- 
tember. The buds must be inserted in the wood 
that grew the same season that budding is done. 
If trees grown from the seed are to be budded, 
they may be too small to bud the first season. In 
this event, they should be cut back to the ground, 
and the new sprouts budded the following year. 
The branches of old trees are sometimes cut off, 
and the new growth that is made may be budded 
at the proper season. (A detailed statement of 
how budding is done will be found under the head 
of peaches.) 

Dwarf Apples. Any of the common varieties of 
apples may be grown as dwarfs (only a few feet 
high), provided they are worked upon the well- 
known Paradise or Doucin stock. These are natural 
dwarfs and when used as stocks upon which to 
bud or graft they cause the trees so grown to be 
very small of stature. Dwarf apple trees come 
into bearing much earlier than others, but do not 
live nearly so long. Dwarfs are sometimes grown 
in pots. 



20 PROPAGATING TREES AND PLANTS 



APRICOTS. 

The apricot is like the apple, in that it will 
not come true from the seed and therefore must 
be propagated by budding" or grafting, the former 
being generally employed. For the best results, 
seeds should be stratified in sand and frozen dur- 
ing the winter as described for apples. Apricot 
seed, however, being larger and more able to' meet 
adverse conditions than the apple, are sometimes 
planted in the fall in well prepared ground. Here 
they freeze and come up without delay in the 
spring. If stratified for freezing (seo apple) they 
should be planted in early spring before they have 
begun to sprout. The young seedlings are to be 
given good culture during the summer, but are not 
to be dug up in the fall like apple seedlings. If 
they are to be budded, the work should be done 
about the first of September, during the first sea- 
son's growth. If it is desired to graft them, the 
seedlings should be cleft-grafted near the ground 
in early spring, at the beginning of the second 
season's growth, under conditions already described 
for the apple. If buds fail to take in the fall, 
they may be grafted in spring. One year's growth 
after being either budded or grafted should make 
sufficiently large plants for setting them in the 
orchard. For details of budding, see discussion 
under The Peach. 

The apricot is often budded upon the peach, as 
the latter thrives upon a greater variety of soils 
than the apricot. The common plum makes an 
excellent stock for the apricot where it is grown 
in wet situations. 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 21 



BLACKBERRIES. 

Blackberries are propagated in two ways, from 
sprouts and by root-cuttings. The blackberries 
sprout readily and it is a simple matter to dig up 
the new plants and set them out where needed. By 
means of root-cuttings the blackberry may be mul- 
tiplied very rapidly. In late winter, or early spring, 
before growth has begun, a few long roots may be; 
dug from the old plants. In the cellar these roots 
may be cut into pieces two or three inches long. 
They should be at least as 
thick as a lead pencil and 
not more than half an 
inch in diameter. The 
pieces may be stored in 
sawdust and kept 
planting time in 

preparation of the 
soil should consist first, of 
plowing deeply in the fall 
previous to plant- 
ing. In spring 
harrow both 
ways until all the 
clods are broken 
in small bits. Lay 
off rows 4 feet 
apart with a sin- 
gle shovel plow. 
In April at gar- 
dening time the 
root-cuttings may be planted. Sow them in the 
furrow 2 or 3 inches apart and cover 2 inches deep 
with loose soil free from heavy clods. 

In Fig. 13 a and b, will be seen blackberry root- 
cuttings before and after beginning to grow. It is 




Fig 



Fig. 13— Blackberry 
after sprouting. 



root-cuttings: (a), before planting; (b), 



22 PROPAGATING TREES AND PLANTS 

best to allow the plants to grow for two seasons in 
the nursery row and then transplant them early in 
the spring- to the permanent planting. The one-year- 
old plants are so small that no time is gained by 
planting them. The rows should be 6 to 8 feet 
apart and the plants 3 feet apart in the rows. Ow- 
ing to the habit of the blackberry of sprouting quite 
freely, the plants will soon form a solid mat along 
the rows and will also fill the spaces between 
the rows if not kept down by constant culti- 
vation. If neglected for one or two seasons, they 
will spread over all the ground and it will be very 
difficult and 'expensive to harvest the fruit. 
CHERRIES. 
The cherry is propagated almost entirely by bud- 
ding. While seedlings from our common varieties 
may be used for growing stock, nurserymen always 
use special kinds of stock which are usually im- 
ported from France. The kinds of stock in most 
general use are the Mazzard and Mahaleb. The 
Mazzard is the best stock for both sweet and sour 
cherries in the east. The Mahaleb is more widely 
used for the sour kinds, however, for it is easier to 
bud, and is free from leaf blight in the nursery. 
The Mazzard, however, appears to form a better 
root system, stronger union, a longer lived tree and 
is sufficiently hardy. For the plains states the har- 
dier Mahaleb stock should be used. Both of these 
may be secured from most any nurseryman in early 
winter or spring. In a small way it is quite feasible 
to grow one's own cherry stock from the seeds of 
the fruit raised at home. 

Cherry seeds should not be permitted to become 
thoroughly dried out at any time. On this account 
it is advisable to store the seeds through the remain- 
der of the summer after ripening, in boxes of sand 
and bury them from eight to twelve inches deep in 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 23 

the ground in a cool place. This will keep them 
moist, and at the same time they will be sufficiently 
cool and away from the free circulation of air that 
they will not beg-in to grow. 

At the approach of cold weather the seeds should 
be taken up and the open boxes of sand kept on the 
surface of the ground in the shade of a building 
throughout the winter. Very early in the spring the 
seeds should be planted in nursery rows four feet 
apart and an inch or two apart in the rows. Cover 
with an inch or two of fine soil, if the ground is not 
too wet. If the seeds are about to sprout and the 
soil is yet too wet to work well the seeds should be 
partially covered with the wet 'earth and then a 
dressing an in,ch thick of well rotted manure spread 
over the rows. 

The young seedlings should have thorough culti- 
vation during the summer. About the last week in 
August or the first week in September when the bark 
peels readily, the budding should be done. In the 
South where the spring opens much earlier the seed- 
lings may be large enough for budding in June. In 
that event one year's time is saved, as the tops are 
cut off immediately, and the young trees often grow 
to transplanting size the same season. Full details 
for the budding will be given under the discussion 
of peaches. When the trees have had one year's 
growth from the buds, they are of the proper ag>e to 
be transplanted to the orchard.- Cherry seedlings are 
sometimes cleft-grafted in spring, where the buds 
the previous fall failed to take. (See cleft-grafting 
under apples.) 

CURRANTS. 

Propagation of the currant is best effected by 
means of long hard wood cuttings, taken either in 
fall or spring. In nursery practice they are com- 
monly taken about September first as soon as the 



24 PROPAGATING TREES AND PLANTS 

leaves fall. The leaves are sometimes stripped from 
the plants a week or so before taking 1 the cutting's, 
if they have not already fallen. The cuttings may 
be planted at once in the nursery rows or tied in 
bundles and buried up- 
side down with two or 
three inches of soil over 
the butts. They should 
be buried in a well-drain- 
ed place where they will 
not become water-logged 
if rains should come dur- 
ing the autumn. Fig 14 
shows bundle of cuttings 
buried upside down, pre- 
paratory to storage or 
planting. At the approach 
of cold weather they may 
be taken up and planted 
in nursery rows and cov- 
ered with a mulch of soil 
or other material during 
the winter, this mulch be- 
ing raked away to expose 
the tips early in spring. 

Planting may be de- 
layed until spring, the 
bundles being taken up 
and stored in sand or 
packing moss in the cel- 
lar, or more deeply cov- 
ered with soil and allowed 
to remain where they are 
Fig. 14. buried outside. The com- 

moner practice is to plant the cuttmgs in nursery 
rows soon after they are taken. They are said to 
root more quickly if packed in damp moss a week 




Fig. 14 — Currant cuttings in a "callus pit." They are buried 
upside down in the soil for two or three months in the fall to 
cause them to root readily when planted. 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 25 



or two before planting. It is very essential to mulch 
the fall planted cuttings with some kind of material; 
probably nothing surpasses the soil itself for this 
purpose, especially in the dry climate of the plains. 
If the cuttings are kept until spring, planting must 
be done very early, as growth begins when the 
weather is yet cool. This makes spring planting 
undesirable in nursery practice. 

Cuttings vary in length from 6 to 10 inches, 
according to soil and climate. The drier the climate 
and the lighter the soil, the longer the cuttings 
should be. In planting, only one or two buds are 
left above the surface, and the soil should be pressed 
firmly against them all the way down to the base. 
Rich, moist soil should be selected in which to plant 
them. 

Another method of propagating currants is by 
what is known as Mound-La yerage. This consists of 
drawing the soil up around the plants until the 
lower parts of many of 
the branches are cov- 
ered as shown in F^g. 
15. Left in this way 
for one or two seasons 
they readily take root, 
and may be cut away, 
each branch making a 
separate plant. When 
grown from cuttings, 
the plants may b e 
either one or two years 
old when transplanted 
to the field. The rows 
are commonly marked 
off 4 to 6 feet apart, 
and the plants set from 
3 to 4 feet aoart in the rows. 




Fig, 



Fig. 15 — Currant mound-layered. 



26 PROPAGATING TREES AND PLANTS 



DEWBERRIES. 

Dewberries are propagated very rapidly by a 
process of runners or natural layers. It is the habit 
of the plant to sprawl upon the ground, and a large 
number of the branches that come in contact with 
the soil readily take root. These may be cut away 
and make good plants. The dewberry is also readily 
propagated by means of root cuttings, like the 
blackberry (which see). 

Dewberries may be transplanted either in fall or 
in spring. They should be set in rows from 4 to 6 
feet apart and about three feet apart in the rows. 

GOOSEBERRIES. 

The common gooseberries are propagated either 
by cuttings, which are made and handled as de- 
scribed for currants, or by mound layerage, also 
described for currants. English gooseberries are 
largely propagated by the latter method. 

When the rooted cuttings or layers are one or two 
years of age, — preferably two — they are ready to be 
set in the permanent planting. Gooseberry rows 
should be about 6 feet apart and the plants 4 feet 
apart in the rows. This will permit them to grow 
large and spreading without crowding each other, 
and yet leave room for cultivation one way. 

GRAPES. 

Grapes are propagated almost exclusively by 
means of cuttings, although a few of the refractory 
varieties, like the Norton's Virginia Seedling and 
Cynthiana, do not root readily and hence have to be 
increased by means of layerage. For this purpose the 
vine is pulled down in spring and covered with soil 
at intervals of 2 feet. If the vine be slightly twisted 
or otherwise bruised at the points where covered, 
they will readily take root and form strong plants 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 27 



during- the season. Late in fall or the following 
spring the vine may be cut in sections, each part 
having roots being a separate plant. Fig. 16 shows 
a layered grapevine. 

Nearly all of the many scores of varieties root 
readily from cuttings. Grape cuttings should be 
made in early winter before there has been a hard 
freeze, from wood of the last season's growth. Vines 




Fig. 16. 

with the joints close together make better cuttings 
than those having the joints far apart. Begin at the 
butt end of the vine, cutting it off squarely just 
below a joint or node. Counting this joint one, skip 
two more joints and cut the vine off at least two 
inches above the third one. It is best to have at 
least three joints for each cutting, although it is 
not absolutely necessary to have but two. The cut- 
tings will range in length from 10 to 18 inches, al- 
though the majority are usually about 12 inches 



Fig. 16 — How to layer a grape vine. 



28 PROPAGATING TKEES AND PLANTS 



long. 



See Fig. 17 (a) for picture of single-eye cut- 
tings, and (b), or- 
dinary 3 -eye cut- 
tings as com- 
monly made. 

Pack the cut- 
tings in bundles 
of fifty each and 
store in green 
sawdust in a cool 
cellar until 
spring. The 

ground on which 
grape cuttings 
are to be planted 
should be mod- 
erately rich and 
plowed very 
deeply, preferably 
the fall before 
they are planted. 
The cuttings 
should be planted 
out early in April, 
care being taken 
to see that their 
buds have not be- 
gun to push out 
while packed in 
sawdust. In the 
nursery the rows 
should be four 
feet apart and 
perfectly straight, 
•-eing lined up 
with a wire or 
garden line. The 
cuttings may be 

Fi S- 17 — At (a) are shown several single-eye grape cuttings; (b), 
the ordinary three-eye grape cuttings as commonly made. 




Fig 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 29 

planted by making holes about four inches apart, 
like planting apple grafts, or a furrow from 8 to 10 
inches deep may be made- In either case the cut- 
tings should not stand up straight, but should lean 
toward the south and the soil be packed very firmly 
around the bottom joint; only the top bud should 
be left above ground and the soil should be almost 
up to it. 

The cuttings will often strike root from both the 
joints under ground, thus making very strong plants. 
They should grow in nursery rows for one or pref- 
erably two years, when they are ready to be moved 
to the permanent planting. The vineyard rows 
should be from 8 to 10 feet apart and the vines from 
6 to 8 feet apart in the rows. At the time of plant- 
ing the vines should be cut back, leaving only about 
two buds to each branch. 

Old grape vines are sometimes renewed or the 
varieties changed by cleft-grafting. This is done in 
the manner described for cleft-grafting the apple, 
except that the soil is drawn away from around the 
plants and the vines sawed off below ground at 
least 3 or 4 inches. The vine is split open and two 
scions inserted and the earth packed around them. 
It is not necessary to use grafting wax on the wound. 
The soil should be drawn around the scions, leaving 
only one bud of each above ground. 

Single-eye Cuttings. When wood for making cut- 
tings is very valuable or scarce, rapid propagation is 
effected by means of single-eye cuttings, using either 
the matured wood of the new growth in fall or, the 
green, growing wood in summer. The cuttings in 
either case are made by using only one joint for 
each as shown in Fig. 17 (a), and must be started 
into growth by being covered an inch deep, while 
lying flat in a sand box or bed in a greenhouse or 
hotbed. Single-eye cuttings make weak vines. 



30 PROPAGATING TREES AND PLANTS 

NECTARINES. 

The propagation of the nectarine is in every way 
like that of the peach. In reality the nectarine is 
a form of smooth-skinned peach. Formerly it was 
thought that the nectarine was a distinct species of 
plant, but it is now known that nectarines often 
come from seeds of peaches and peaches have come 
from seeds of nectarines. Either may originate 
from the other by means of bud variation. Because 
of the smooth skin of the fruit it is perhaps more 
liable to the attacks of the curculio. It is less pop- 
ular in the market than the peach and therefore is 
less grown, although in California it is planted on 
a commercial scale. In that state it does well on 
almond stock. (See Peaches.) 

PEACHES. 

Peaches, plums, nectarines, apricots and cherries 
are propagated almost entirely by budding, the 
work usually being done in summer in the South 
(June budding) or, in the latitude of Missouri and 
northward, about the first of September. The pro- 
cess of budding for all of the fruits mentioned in this 
paragraph, including the growing of the stock, is 
practically the same, so that a description in full 
for peaches will answer for the whole. 

Peach seeds must be frozen in order to secure 
best results in getting them to sprout. Peach seeds 
may be planted in the fall in the nursery rows, or 
stratified in boxes of sand (See Fig. 1) left uncov- 
ered in the shade of a building outside during the 
winter, where they will freeze, and are planted in 
spring. Nurserymen who raise peach stock on a 
large scale often place the seed on the ground in a 
heap and cover them with sand, the mass being 
allowed to freeze during the winter. When peach 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 31 

seeds are gathered about the home for the purpose 
of growing budding stock, it is best not to allow 
them to lie in the sun and dry out during the late 
summer and fall. If they are placed in boxes of 
moist sand while they are still fresh, they often 
germinate more evenly when planted the following 
spring. Planting the seeds in fall is not as satis- 
factory as stratifying them in sand for freezing 
and in spring planting them in freshly prepared soil. 
Stratify for freezing as described for apple seeds. 
For spring planting of peach seeds, the soil should 
be plowed the previous fall in order that it may 
be worked early in spring. Prepare as for a garden 
spot and lay off rows 4 feet apart with a single 
shovel plow; scatter the seeds in the furrow, from 
1 to 2 inches apart and cover with about 2 inches 
of loamy soil. They may have to be planted when 
the soil is too wet to cover them properly. In this 
event, the furrows should be given a dressing an 
inch thick of well rotted manure. It is best not to 
plant these seeds on a soil that is too rich, as the 
young trees will make too rank a growth after being 
budded. The seedlings should be given good cultiva- 
tion by plowing or hoeing during the summer. 

In the latitude of Arkansas and Tennessee and 
farther south where the peach seeds may be sown in 
February, the seedlings by June are large enough to 
bud. When budded in June the tops are cut away as 
soon as the buds unite and the growth is very rapid, 
so that the trees by late autumn are large enough for 
planting in the orchard. While June budded trees 
are usually smaller than those budded in the autumn 
one year's time has been saved, which is often a 
matter of great importance to the grower of the 
trees, whether he be growing them for his own use 
or to sell. 

For autumn budding, which is the most common 
practice, the buds should be inserted about the last 



32 PROPAGATING TREES AND PLANTS 

week in August or the first week in September. In 
general the budding should be done when the bark 
peels best. When the work is ready to be done the 
buds are to be selected from the desired varieties. 
Buds are always procured from young branches that 
have grown the same season budding is done. On 
these young branches there will always be a few 
inches toward the tip which is soft and immature, 
and therefore this, part should be cut away. Peach 
tree twigs contain both flower buds and leaf buds. 
If flower buds only are present and* were used for 
budding, they would do nothing but flower and die, 
while the leaf buds (also called wood buds) will 
grow and make a top to the tree. The best wood 
buds are found toward the middle of the twig. 

The wood buds may be distinguished from the 
flower buds (also called fruit buds) by remembering 
that they are smaller, flatter and never so plump. 
A fruit bud can do no particular harm if there is 
also a wood bud. It is desirable to knoAV this, as a 
wood bud will often have a fruit bud on either side 
of it. When this occurs the outside buds may be 
broken off, as they are of no use. Where there is 
only one bud at the base of the leaf, it is usually a 
wood bud, and where there are two or three in a 
row across the twig, it is almost certain that the 
middle one is a wood bud and the outside ones 
flower buds. After a little observation and practice 
it will not be difficult to select the proper kind of 
buds to use. 

The weather is usually very warm at budding 
time, so that it will be necessary to wrap the twigs 
from which the buds are to be taken in a damp 
cloth or an old newspaper moistened on the inside 
to prevent their drying out. As soon as the twig 
is cut from the tree, trim off the leaves, leaving a 
piece of stem about half an inch long to hold to 
when the buds are being inserted. Fig. 18 (a). 
The manner of cutting the buds from the twig, which 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 33 




Fig. 18 



is known as a bud- 
ding: stick, is shown 
in Fig. 18 (b). Hold 
the budding stick in 
the left hand, up- 
side down and, with 
the other hand force 
t"-e knife blade 
down through the 
bark and into the 
wood, making a 
downward cut. Next, 
withdraw the knife 
and, at a point down 
nearly to where the 
cut stopped, make a 
cross just through 
the bark and no 
deeper. If the bark 
peels easily (and it 
should at budding 
time), the bud may 
now be lifted up and 
the bark will part 
from the wood very 
readily. While many 
prefer to have no 
wood adhering to 
the bud, there are 
some who slice the 
buds off from the 
twigs, leaving a por- 
tion of the wood at- 
tached to them. 

Budding. The lit- 
tle seedling peach 
should be budded as 



Fig. 18— Budding the peach: (a), shows desirable buds on the 
twig and manner of making cuts for removing them. 



34 PROPAGATING TREES AND PLANTS 

near the ground as it is convenient to work, 
which will be two or three inches from the surface 
of the soil. The first step in preparing- the seedling 
to receive the bud is to make a slit in the bark 
lengthwise, and at the upper end of this slit a cross- 
cut, thus forming a T-shaped figure on the bark of 
the sprout, illustrated in Fig. 19 (a). The bark 
should peel readily, and in Fig. 19 (b) may be seen 
how it has been gently raised with the point of the 
knife and the flaps slightly rolled back. At this 
point the bud should be cut from the budding stick 
as directed and inserted beneath the bark of the 
sprout by holding with thumb and finger the short 
stem left for the purpose and gently forcing it down- 
ward, sharp end first, until the square end of the 
bud gets down to where it will fit against the cross- 
cut in the bark itself. In Fig. 19 (c) the bud is 
seen in position and ready for wrapping. 

In order that the bud may form a union with the 
growing seedling, it is necessary to press it closely 
against the tree by binding with some sort of a 
string. Nurserymen commonly use a kind of grass 
known as raffia, which is wet before applying and 
adjusts itself to the parts to be covered and makes 
an excellent wrapper. A good substitute for raffia, 
easily obtainable by everyone, is strips a quarter or 
half an inch wide torn from an old handkerchief or 
similar old and thin linen or cotton goods. They are 
sometimes tied with strips of wet corn shucks. 
Whatever is used is to be bound around the newly 
inserted bud, as indicated in Fig. 19 (d), in such a 
manner as to leave only the stem of the leaf on the 
bud, sticking out. This leaf stem will serve as an 
indicator to show whether the bud has united or not. 
If the stem remains green the bud is living; other- 
wise it will turn brown in a day or two. 

Do not wait longer than a week or ten days before 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 35 

examining- the buds to see if they are living. If 
they have united with the trees, release the bandage 
by cutting it on the opposite side from the bud in 
order not to disturb the healing wound. This early 
examination and cutting of the string must not be 
forgotten, as it is very important. At this time the 
little trees are making a very rapid growth in- thick- 
ness and in a remarkably short time will grow over 
the string and literally choke the trees to death or, 
what is more to the point, will make a deep ring in 



a m b m 

Hi |/JH 

mm mm 


' L 


1-—" 
1 MmuK- mL- 


2*" 1 . 


umw^i-'mm 


"^W^'/M 


^-x^&Zm^ 


<* ! '**v -Wr 



Fig. 19. 
the tree and cause it to break off where the bud is 
inserted. During the autumn in which the bud is 
inserted in the tree it will make no growth other 
than to make a firm union with the stock, the bud 
itself remaining dormant. 

The following spring the bud will begin to grow 

Fig. 19 — Budding the peach (continued): (a), T-shaped cut in 
bark; (b), bark raised for insertion of bud: (c), the bud in place: 
(d), the inserted bud properly wrapped with raffia or strip of 
thin cloth; (e), the bud united with the stock, the mark above the 
bud showing where the seedling should be cut off in June (in the 



36 PROPAGATING TREES AND PliANTS 

along with the other buds on the tree, and now the 
little tree must be cut off from one-half an inch to 
an inch above the bud, as shown by the mark in Fig. 
19 (e). This will throw all of the growth into the 
new bud and it will shoot upward rapidly. A large 
number of little sprouts will be certain to spring up 
around the stump, and it will be necessary to rub 
them off two or three times during the early sum- 
mer in order to keep the growth where it is wanted- 

It is best to plant the peach seeds in rows run- 
ning north and south, which will make it possible 
to bud all of the trees on the north side. This is 
thought to be desirable, because it is believed that 
the sun may injure the buds when they are first 
inserted. One season's growth from the bud makes 
trees of the proper age for planting in the orchard. 
In Missouri peach trees are commonly set in rows 
from 16 to 20 feet each way. 

In a new region where it is desired to grow 
peaches it is often the case that varieties known to 
be successful elsewhere are planted extensivly but on 
reaching bearing age are found to be unsuited to the 
soil, climate or other surroundings. In this event, 
all of the branches should be cut back to stubs 
from 2 to 4 inches long. These will throw out 
sprouts which may be budded the following season 
with the desired variety. Undesirable varieties are 
sometimes planted by mistake among other trees 
and may be top-worked or renewed with the desired 
sorts in the manner described. 

PEARS. 

Pears are propagated by both budding and graft- 
ing, like the apple. The essential differences be- 
tween grafting pears and apples are: That the pear 
is always grafted on the whole seedling root, the 
scion being 4 to 6 inches long and the union being 



FRUIT-GROAVER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 37 




Pig. 20. 



made at the crown- Also, 
after the graft is made, the 
wound must be entirely cov- 
ered over with grafting wax. 
As soon as the hot wax is 
spread on, the graft should 
be dropped into a tub of wa- 
ter in order to cool it imme- 
diately. See Pig. 20 (a, b 
and c). 

The seedling pear stock 
is not extensively grown 
in this country owing to the 
difficulty of securing the 
/seed. Nurserymen import 
their stock from Prance, and 
persons desiring to do their 
own propagating may pur- 
chase seedlings from the 
nurserymen at reasonable 
prices. If pear seeds are 
procurable, it is easy to grow 
the stock by stratifying them 
in sand and allowing them to 
freeze, and otherwise treat- 
ing them like apple seed. 
The management of the seed- 
lings and scions and time of 
doing the grafting is the 
same as for the apple. For 
time, manner and precau- 
tions in planting the grafts 
the reader is referred to the 
discussion under apples. 

Pear trees may be both 
budded and top worked in 



Fig. 20 — Grafting pears: (a), the whole seedling pear root cut 
off at crown and ready to be grafted; (b), the short scion spliced 
to the long stock; (c), the point of union, tied and covered 
wii'h wax. 



38 PROPAGATING TREES AND PLANTS 

precisely the same way as that described for apples. 

Dwarf Pears. If pear trees are grown upon pear 
roots, either by budding or grafting-, they are known 
as standards. When worked on the quince root the 
pear is easily grown as a dwarf. It then comes into 
bearing earlier and, since the trees are small, the 
fruits can be thinned and the trees sprayed and the 
fruit therefore should be of a higher quality. Dwarfs 
require more care than the ordinary standards, how- 
ever, and they should not be planted unless the 
owner understands this fact and is willing to give 
the attention that they need. Although the trees 
are by nature dwarf, since they are worked on a 
smaller growing species, they nevertheless tend to 
become half standard if left to themselves. A dwarf 
pear tree should never reach a greater height than 
twelve feet. In order to keep it down to this stature 
it is often necessary to remove from one-half to two- 
thirds of the annual growth late each winter. 

A good dwarf pear tree is one in which the union 
with the quince stock is very close to the ground. 
When the tree is planted this union should be from 
4 to 6 inches below the surface, after the ground 
has settled. It is the common belief that dwarf 
pears do not live as long as the standards. The 
variety that is oftenest grown as a dwarf is the 
Duchess. Other varieties propagated as dwarfs are 
Louise Bonne, Anjou, Clairgeau, Manning Elizabeth, 
and to a less extent, Bartlett, Seckel and Kieffer. 
Both standard and dwarf pears are ready to be 
planted in the orchard after growing in the nursery 
for one or two seasons, the two-year-olds being 
preferred. 

PLUMS. 

Plums are propagated by budding, a full descrip- 
tion of the process being found under the peach. 
While the seeds of any of our common plums will 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 39 

make desirable stock upon which to bud, nursery- 
men generally use either Myrobolan or Marianna 
stock. The former is used extensively in the North, 
but is inclined to sprout badly. The Marianna is 
much recommended in the South. Plum stock is 
extensively imported from France, owing to the dif- 
ficulty in getting seeds in sufficient quantities for 
planting in this country. When plum seeds are to 
be planted they are to be treated in every respect 
like peach seeds. 

Plum stock may be quickly and easily grown from 
hard wood cuttings of the Marianna plum. This 
variety, while often planted, is usually worthless so 
far as its fruit is concerned. The trees are always 
large and exceedingly vigorous, but they refuse to 
bear fruit. In early winter the twigs of the last 
season's growth may be taken and cut into sections 
about 6 or 7 inches long and stored away in green 
sawdust like apple scions. The cuttings are planted 
in spring in a well drained soil. A furrow with one 
straight side may be opened up with a small turning 
plow and the cuttings planted therein by standing 
them up, leaning slightly toward the south against 
the perpendicular wall of the furrow and have the 
earth packed tightly around them, especially near 
their base. The cuttings should be planted with 
only one or two buds left above ground. They will 
take root and make a growth large enough t'o bud 
the same season. 

Plums are often budded upon peach stock in order 
that they may be grown upon locations where the 
plum roots would not thrive. Plum roots also make 
good stock upon which to bud peaches when the 
latter are to be grown in wet situations. Plums are 
usually grown in the nursery for one year after 
budding before being planted in the orchard. They 
may, however, be allowed to grow, two years before 



40 PROPAGATING TREES AND PLANTS 

transplanting. In the orchard they are commonly set 
from 12 to 16 feet apart each way. For detailed di- 
rections for budding, see under peaches. 

QUINCES. 

Quinces are propagated in four ways: By cuttings 
of the ripened wood and also from pieces of roots 
treated like cuttings; mound layers; root grafting; 
and budding. Hard wood cuttings are employed by 
nurserymen who have light warm soils. They are 
handled like grape cuttings and made like currant 
cuttings. In mound layering the old plant is cut 
back to encourage a growth of sprouts from the 
crown. A mound of soil is then thrown up about 
them, as described for currants, and when rooted 
the sprouts are cut off. Plants so grown are not the 
most desirable, because of their tendency to sprout 
when set in the orchard. When root grafting is 
employed pieces of apple roots are spliced to the 
scions. These roots assist the cuttings in becoming 
established and often are removed when the nursery 
tree is transplanted to the orchard. 

If budding is employed, the quince seedlings 
should be grown in the manner described for apples, 
the time and manner of budding being the same as 
for that fruit. 

RASPBERRIES. 

There are three kinds of raspberries, the reds, 
the blackcaps, and a cross (hybrid) between the 
two. Red raspberries are readily propagated by 
means of the sprouts springing up abundantly from 
the roots. They may also be propagated by means 
of root-cuttings in the manner described for black- 
berries. Plants of one season's growth are ready 
to be set in the permanent planting. The rows 
should be at least 4 feet apart and the plants 3 feet 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 



41 



apart in the rows. They quickly spread and cover 
all the ground between the plants and also between 
the rows if this space is not kept clear by regular 
summer cultivation. 

Blackcap raspberries are propagated entirely by 
what is known as "root tips," illustrated in Fig. 21. 
The old plants produce long, drooping branches 



/ 


\ 


_/-v 










^ ^_ 











i 9 - 









Fig. 21. 

which bend over and touch the ground and take root 
at the tips. To take root readily the soil must be 
cultivated during the summer or else a shovelful of 



Fig. 21 — How the blackcap raspberry takes root at the tips of 
its branches. 



42 PROPAGATING TREES AND PLANTS 



earth must be thrown over the tips of the branches 
in midsummer. To rapidly increase the plants by 
this method it is only necessary to pinch out the 
terminal bud when it begins to show a tendency to 
take root, which will cause from three to five 
branches to spring- out at or near the end, each of 
which will soon touch the ground and take root. Of 
course these plants will not be as strong as a single 
one would be without the pinching. 

The third form of raspberry is often classed with 
the red raspberries, although it is the result of a 
cross between the reds and the blackcaps. The fruit 
is very much like the reds, but in its manner of prop- 
agation it is like the blackcaps. The Shaffer (or 
Shaffer's Colossal) is the best representative of this 
type. All of the plants coming from root tips are 
formed in the summer and have two or three months 
in which to grow. The following spring the rooted 
branches may be cut off about 6 inches from the 
ground, thus leaving a handle by which to pick up 
the plants. 

The root tips of both the blackcaps and the hybrid 
form are planted in spring in well prepared soil, the 
rows being 4 feet apart and the plants set 3 feet 
apart in the rows. These plants never sprout from 
the roots, hence the spaces in the rows between the 
plants are in no danger of being taken by sprouts. 

STRAWBERRIES. 

If the soil about the old plants is kept in a pul- 
verized condition during mid and late summer by 
cultivation, strawberries are propagated readily and 
rapidly by means of runners. Each year in July 
after the fruiting season is well over with, the 
plants begin to throw out runners, which creep over 
the ground in all directions. These runners take 
root at the nodes (joints) very readily if they can 
touch a moist soil. After taking root a runner will 



FRUIT-GROWER CO., ST. JOSEPH, MO. 43 

continue to increase in length, and may take root at 
several places, but the plants will gradually grow 
smaller toward the tip. In order to have strong 
plants, it is not advisable to take them from run- 
ners that have rooted at more than three places- 

It is a custom among growers who raise large 
quantities of strawberries for shipment to grow their 
own plants for setting their plantations. They 
have found that it pays to set apart a special plot 
of ground for raising the plants to set. The plants 
used to propagate from are never permitted to bear 
any fruit, all of the flowers being carefully picked 
off as soon as they form. Under this treatment the 
plants throw out very strong runners. These are 
often pruned back in order to prevent their forming 
too many plants. The pruning is done with a sharp 
spade which is jabbed into the ground among the 
runners, or they are chopped off with a sharp hoe. 
However, all do not take these precautions. It is 
considered of more importance to prevent the plants 
from fruiting than it is to prune the runners. 

For a home berry patch the^ young plants may be 
taken up in September of the season they were 
formed and set in the permanent planting where they 
will make considerable growth before cold weather. 
These will bear some fruit the following season- 
For a commercial planting, where the fruit is to be 
sold in large quantities on the open market, it is 
the unanimous verdict that the plants should not 
be set out in the field until early spring, and then 
not permitted to fruit any that season, the flowers 
all being picked off. Strawberries may be trans- 
planted almost any time during the year when the 
ground is not frozen, but if set in the dry, hot 
weather of mid or late summer, it is very trouble- 
some to keep them alive. If one is prepared to irri- 
gate or otherwise prepared to water the plants reg- 



44 PROPAGATING TREES AND PLANTS 

ularly, they may be set at any time in summer or 
fall. This, however, applies only to small home 
plantings. 

The strawberry being a cool-weather plant, that 
is, growing when the temperature is quite low, it is 
important in spring planting to get them out as soon 
after the frost is out of the soil as possible. Straw- 
berry rows should be 4 feet apart and the plants in 
the rows set from 15 to 30 inches apart, — 2 feet 
being about the average distance. 



'r-C 



CONTENTS. 

APPLES— Page 

Collection and care of seeds 6 

Planting apple seeds 7 

Growing apple stock (roots) for grafting — 

digging and storing 8 

Collection of scions — kind of wood to use, 

storage, etc 9 

Making the common grafts — storage 10 

Planting apple graft — precautions 13 

Cleft- grafting 15 

How to make grafting wax 18 

Budding apples 19 

Dwarf apples 19 

APRICOTS — 

Care and planting of seeds 20 

BLACKBERRIES — 

Ways of propagating — Sprouts and root-cut- 
tings 21 

CHERRIES— 

Kinds of cherry stock , 22 

Budding and grafting . . . 23 

CURRANTS — 

Cuttings; how made, care of, planting, etc.. 2 3-2 4 
Mound-layerage; how propagated by this 
method .' \ 2 5 

DEWBERRIES— 

Propagation and planting 26 

GOO SEBERRIES — 

Cuttings and layers — how made; planting. ... 26 



GRAPES— pa|?e 

Propagating by layers 26 

How to make the common cuttings 27 

Care and planting of cuttings 28 

Grafting grape vines 29 

Single-eye cuttings 29 

NECTARINES— 

What they are and how propagated 30 

PEACHES— 

Care of seeds before planting 30 

Planting peach seeds 30-31 

June budding 31 

Autumn budding 31 

Selection of buds and details of budding. . . .32-36 

PEARS — 

How propagated — budding and graftage 36 

Pear stock; how procured 37 

Dwarf pears — Standard pears 38 

PLUMS— 

Growing plum stock from seeds and cuttings. . 38 
Budding plums 3 9 

QUINCES— 

Propagation by cuttings 40 

RASPBERRIES— 

Red raspberries — propagation of by root-cut- 
tings, etc 40 

Blackcap raspberries — propagation by root- tips 41 
Hybrid raspberries — propagation by root-tips. . 42 

STRAWBERRIES— 

Propagating from runners 42 

Transplanting strawberries — spring, summer, 
fall 43-44 



LBJl. '05 



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